How To Guides

Product Name

HexDrain

Description

Channel with black plastic grating

Product Code

19310

Dimensions overall (mm)

1000 (L) x 125 (W) x 80 (D)

Weight (kg)

1.4

Description

Channel with galvanised steel grating

Product Code

19313

The potential range of products available includes:

  • Fascia: Available in a range of thicknesses and profile depending on taste. 18-25mm fascia boards are recommended for full replacement. Use the 10mm or less fascia boards for an installation with backing board or if capped over sound existing timber fascia.

     
  • Soffit: Available in a range of PVC-UE cellular flat boards, PVC-UE cellular cladding profiles or in PVC-U hollow board.  For the most robust installations the first two options (product codes GPB or FV/FC) are preferable.
     
  • Fixings & Accessories: Choose appropriate accessories to match chosen fascia and soffit products.
    Order of fixing

    The recommended  order of fixing is as follows: 

    • Trims
    • Soffit
    • Fascia
    • Box End
    • Bargeboard
    • Joints and Corners 
       
    Preparation Before Fixing

    Remove bottom 1-2 rows of tiles
    Remove old fascias, soffits and bargeboards to prevent any moisture that remains from rotting the supporting timber. If you chose to leave these items in place, please ensure that any rotted timber is cut out and replaced with treated timber
    Inspect the rafter felt and replace where necessary with felt or with eaves protector
    Provide adequate support at the wall for the soffit
    a. Extend a noggin from the wall, or
    b. Fix a batten to the wall, or
    c. Use the rafters as support
     

    Fixing Soffit


    GPB board can be fixed directly to the noggin or batten with plaspins, fig. 2.1
    For a super neat finish use J-trim in single or two-part form to hold and give a neat finish to the inside edge of the soffit at the wall
    If cladding profile or hollow soffit is used, they can alternatively be used in short lengths from the wall to the fascia
    At the gable end there are two main choices:
    a. The soffit continues all the way until it reaches the gable box end, fig. 2.2, or
    b. The soffit terminates at an angle of 45 degrees to the corner of the wall and a H-trim is used to integrate with the soffit forming the base of the gable box, fig. 2.3

     

    Ventilation

    Ventilation is provided at the eaves by means of purpose-made slotted soffit boards or by our overfascia ventilation

    Ventilation is provided at the eaves by means of purpose-made slotted soffit boards or by our overfascia ventilation
    Fig. 2.1 above shows the typical pre-vented
    general purpose board
    Fig. 3.1 shows the typical ventilation
    (F104V or F109) for the hollow soffit


     

    Fixing Fascia

    1. The depth of the fascia used should be chosen so that the top edge of the fascia does not bear the weight of the tiles if 10mm or less thick.
    2. Nail the first length of fascia into position, starting exactly in line with the centreline of the corner rafter, then at not more than 600 mm centres into the ends of the rafters. Remember that, when the fascia is in position, the rainwater gutter has to follow, so position your nails so as to be clear. of the subsequent screw fixings. This will ensure that:
    a) the screws go in without problems and
    b) the brackets won’t rock from side to side because
    there is a projecting head of a nail behind them. Remember at the gable end cut back the fascia leg
    at a 45-degree angle, fig. 4.1
    3. Cut the fascia to length, to ensure that its other end coincides with the centreline of a rafter. Ideally, the end should be just short of the rafter’s centreline. Twice nail the fascia into the tail of every rafter, at not more than 600 mm centres.
    At the joint between each length of fascia board, a joiner is needed. Pre-drill and twice pin it into either the right or left hand fascia board (not both). In this procedure you should ensure that a minimum of 5mm spacing is left between board ends to allow for expansion, fig. 4.2
    4. Start at the left-hand corner:
    a. Without Bargeboards – It couldn’t be much simpler: fix the fascia boards along the front, with joints at rafter tails as necessary. The projecting eaves normally have a small box end, which is cut from a single piece of fascia board. If a separate fillet covering the tilting fillet is required, this additional triangle can easily be incorporated into the new box end. With fascia and box ends in place, fix end caps or corner trims to both ends with nails/pins; superglue and activator; or silicone in accordance with local custom. Where superglue or silicone are being used, special care should be taken to ensure that surfaces are clean and dry before fixing begins.

    b. With Bargeboards –  Where bargeboards are involved, the procedure is slightly different, because the box ends have to be formed. Before cutting the corner trim, remember its height is not governed by the depth of the eaves fascia - it’s the depth of the bargeboard that matters. A 225 mm deep bargeboard, when cut vertically at its end, has to be deeper because you’re not cutting at right angles. If the pitch is 45 degrees, 225 becomes 318 mm and, at 22.5 degrees, it’s 242 mm. A tilting fillet can add another 50 mm or so.
    5. Note: The leg of the fascia will support the outside edge of the soffit.

    Finishing the Gable End

    Fig 2.1, 2.2, and 2.3 illustrate a typical box end support framework
    Fig 5.1 illustrates components required to dress, build or complete the box
    Fig 5.2 shows the completed box end

    Fixing Cellular Cladding Systems

    Fix battens vertically with a breathable moisture barrier behind them, fig.7


    fig 7
    Showing moisture barrier and battens before the cladding begins

    2.   Fix starter trim at the bottom of the area to be clad, ensuring that the back lip of the cladding board is engaged in the lug of the starter trim, fig.8

    fig 8
    Showing starter trim
    and showing the use of the universal corner trim for external angles


    3. Fix perimeter trims i.e. part 1 of 2-part corner trims and U-trims in place:
    a. Fix ‘under part’ to relevant corners, fig 9.1

    b. Fix part 2 of 2-part corner trim once the wall is fully clad, fig 9.2

    c. Fix U-trim at the edge of the wall on the final batten, fig 9.3


    Fix perimeter trims i.e. part 1 of 2-part corner trims and U-trims in place:
    a. Fix ‘under part’ to relevant corners, fig 9.1

    b. Fix part 2 of 2-part corner trim once the wall is fully clad, fig 9.2
    fig 9.2
    Showing the male component of
    2-part corner trim being applied once cladding is finished

    fig 9.3
    Showing how the cladding
    is capped by the U-trim






    4. Continue to fit other boards as above using;
    a. A butt joint (FC209/FV209) to break the joint, fig.10
    fig 10

    Showing moisture barrier and
    battens before the cladding begins
    or
    b.  A straight H-trim joiner for a
    continuous seam, fig.11 (below)

    5. When fitting the top cladding board, use packing behind the board where necessary to ensure that the face of the cladding
    is aligned. Once the wall has been fully clad, fix part 2 of the universal U-trim along the top of the boards to give a neat
    finish, fig.11

    Showing moisture barrier and
    battens before the cladding begins

    Fully clad wall

    Allowance For Thermal Movement

    PVC building products expand and contract. Therefore, a gap of approximately 5mm is required between boards to allow for this.
    On most houses, the fascia needs no more than two lengths of fascia, so it’s important to cut the last one to the right working length.

    Useful Tip

    Take care when cutting the last length of fascia.
    NEVER cut it too short because it can’t be used.
    Cut it a bit too long and it can be cut again, if necessary.

    Health & Safety

    Always cut boards; never break them.
    Wearing heavy-duty rubber gloves is advisable since sawn or cut edges can be sharp enough to cause injury.
    Face masks and eye protection are advisable when
    cutting, particularly with power tools.

    Always ensure that you are in compliance with all
    standard site safety rules and best building practices.